Lands End to John O Groats
May 2003
During the month of May 2003, I made the journey from Land's End to John 'O Groats by bicycle.
The idea for the trip was first formed in about 1989, when I read an account of the trip in a cycling magazine. Since then I knew that one day - I would do the same...
PLANNING
I did not plan the trip until about 2 days before leaving. I bought a rack for my bicycle, and borrowed an old set of panniers. It was only when I got off the train at Penzance that I tried cycling with the panniers on the bike!
Perhaps this was a bit of a haphazard way to go about a trip of this sort, but it suited me fine, and everything went without a hitch after that.
ROUTE PLANNING
The first 3 days were extracted from Lonely Planet's "Cycling Britain" guide. However I soon found that I enjoyed the thrill of spontaneous route-finding. So I bought a large scale Britain road map,and used it as a guide. Every night I would look at the map, and decide where I wanted to be the next day, and picked the next day's route.
To remain flexible, only once did I book accomodation ahead and that was a bank holiday weekend. In fact I only booked my train ticket back from Inverness several days beforehand, and that worked out very well - with me getting a bargain ticket for only £28! Admittedly I cycled slightly off-peak (May). This would not be possible in July/Aug.
Along the way I met 2 other cyclists who had pre-booked all accomodation and tickets 3 months beforehand. They both told me that they wished that they had been more flexible, and I would reccommend this approach to anybody considering the trip.
ROUTE
I followed a direct line through Southern England to Bristol, crossing the Severn into Wales. After that I deviated from the usual route into the Midland, by heading North through Wales to Bangor in North Wales, where I climbed Mt Snowdon (twice).
From there it was directly East to Chester, before heading North again through the Yorkshire Dales National Park, and up into Scotland.
I avoided the most direct route past Edinburgh & Aviemore, instead choosing my highlight of the trip, the road from Loch Lomond to Fort William. From Inverness, again I detoured past Ullapool, then up the impressive & remote Scottish West coast, followed by the undulating North coast road to John 'O Groats.
ACCOMMODATION
After 3 days of staying in lonely inflexible B&B's, I discovered the YHA. Although many find them to be impersonal, I found them warm, friendly, and a relaxing end to my day. However - because I was cycling a bit off-season, many times I found myself in an empty room, or sharing with just 1 other, different to sharing with 8 others.
But the location of many of these hostels was worth the trip alone. I refer particularly to: Kings Hostel (Dollgellau - Wales), the unmissable Loch Lomond "Castle" hostel, Glen Nevis and Achmelvich on the Scottish West Coast.
STAGES
Day 1 |
Land's End to Newquay |
83km |
Day 2 |
Newquay to Launceston |
93km |
Day 3 |
Launceston to Tiverton |
87km |
Day 4 |
Tiverton to Glastonbury |
88km |
Day 5 |
Glastonbury to Chepstow |
98km |
Day 6 |
Chepstow to Brecon |
87km |
Day 7 |
Brecon to Dolgellau |
81km |
Day 8 |
Dolgellau to Llandidloes |
74km |
Day 9 |
Llandidloes to Bangor |
85km |
Day 10 |
Bangor to Chester |
112km |
Day 11 |
Chester to Knutsford |
51km |
Day 12 |
Knutsford to Slaidburn |
114km |
Day 13 |
Slaidburn to Dufton |
97km |
Day 14 |
Dufton to Greenhead |
60km |
Day 15 |
Grrenhead to Broadmeadows |
102km |
Day 16 |
Broadmeadows to Loch Lomond |
168km |
Day 17 |
Loch Lomond to Fort William |
140km |
Day 18 |
Fort William to Strathpeffer |
131km |
Day 19 |
Strathpeffer to Achmelvich |
124km |
Day 20 |
Achmelvich to Tongue |
137km |
Day 21 |
Tongue to John 'O Groats |
106km |
I don't have an album of photos from this trip, but look at my postcards, numbers 1 thru 6.
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